Silk has a natural glow which draws my eye and this beautiful Anthea Crawford raw silk suit shines with integrity after a hand wash, no iron, and a few tweaks to update it.
As you many know, silk is produced from the chrysalis of silkworms. In her book Sustainable Fashion and Textiles: Design Journeys, Kate Fletcher says most commercially produced silk is cultivated and involves feeding the worms a controlled diet of mulberry leaves under special conditions.
The fibres are extracted by steaming to kill moth chrysalis (because if the moth is left to emerge the silk filament is damaged) and then washed in hot water to degum the silk. Sounds a bit grim – and all the more reason to treasure and reuse garments, and just wash and hang rather than dryclean and/or iron.
This book by Kate Fletcher was the first I read during postgraduate study last year which informed my journey to inspire upcycling natural fibre clothing for pleasure, reward and sustainability.
Its eight chapters provide innovative ways of thinking about fabrics and garments based on sustainability values and a broad, interconnected view of design that I will return to many times during this 365-day eco-clothing project.
Kate’s book includes actions and ideas, using practical skills and creative thinking to innovate, ways of working or visions compatible with sustainability – all drawn together into a holistic, multi-layered way that is roots-based, nature-inspired and an interconnected vision for the future.
Each of us can make a difference through small changes in the way we dress and the clothing we wear. Why buy new-new when you can make old-new?
I wondered whether I should remove the Anthea Crawford label from this suit and decided not to. The garment retains all the integrity of the original design, fabric and shell buttons – and I’ve just made a few small adaptations to give it a second life. I removed the shoulder pads, cropped the sleeves and the chunky waistband. I also trimmed the skirt length, and added this as a collar by sewing to the inside neckline, using a few tucks to make it fit, and then letting it drape over itself.
