Category Archives: hand sew/no sew

Sew 253 – Valuing vintage fur

vintage furI remember seeing Fur is Green advertisements when visiting Canada and the United States in 2009 and thinking it was clever marketing. The Fur Council of Canada campaign maintains that fur is a natural, renewable and sustainable resource. It claims synthetics, by contrast, are generally made from petroleum (a non-renewable resource), which is not consistent with the sustainable use of our environment.

The campaign website said: At a time when the true ecological cost of “cheap”, mass-produced, disposable “fast-fashion” is just beginning to be calculated – think millions of tons of poor-quality fibers and short-life garments filling up landfills – the naturally durable and recyclable qualities of fur makes more sense than ever.

Max Lily and CaseyNow that I think about it, perhaps the seeds for this 365-day Sew it Again project were sown back then because this message resonates through my ongoing reuse of natural fibre clothing that already exists instead of buying cheap new synthetic stuff. (BTW, here’s a favourite photo, right, of my lovely children Max, Lily and Casey in Montreal during that 2009 trip to visit Casey while doing part of his engineering degree at McGill University).

Anyway, fur fashion is a polarised debate as Leon Kaye explains it in this Triple Pundit article. I am squeamish about animal suffering for people’s pleasure but I grew up on a farm and work in agriculture so I have a pragmatic approach to eating meat and wearing animal products. We have laws to ensure animals are treated humanely and we expect them to be enacted.

Jane Milburn and Keelen MailmanI don’t believe I would go so far as to buy a new fur coat – yet was happy to purchase this vintage fur in a Launceston op shop when I visited Tasmania a few winters ago because it reminded me of a fur coat my great great Aunt Winnie once owned. And it was only $20.

Living in Queensland, we have to guard against pest incursions (silverfish, moths) during summer months because there is nothing more traumatic than seeing a treasure munched. Therefore, I store this fur with bags of cloves in the pockets and in a flat fully-sealed plastic hanging bag. This storage technique may not be ideal but the fur emerged intact to become Sew 253. It does not have a label but the coat is so beautifully constructed, I wondered if the original lining had been replaced. Either way, all I did was fix the hand-stitching on one section where the lining had come away from the fur and it was good as gold. Here’s me in Sew 253, after book club at my dear friend Kay’s, on the banks of the Brisbane River my Australian Rural Leadership Program buddy Keelen Mailman wearing Sew 74.

vintage fur lining restitched

Sew 250 – Denim cum cushion covers

Denim jackets double as cushion coversI loved seeing denim jackets multi-tasking as cushion covers when visiting my friend Cazza yesterday.

It’s great to have others involved in upcycling as together we rethink our relationship with clothing and its impact on our environment.

In the same way we appreciate the influence food has on our health and well-being, we are coming to consciousness about clothing impacts on ecological health and sustainability.

It is admirable to see Levi Strauss quantifying the life-cycle assessment of denim jeans as part of the company’s sustainability agenda. And as consumers of clothing products, we can also make a difference by washing less, using cold water, line drying, and finding alternative homes or uses for clothing when we’re not wearing them because they’re too big/small, out of vogue or season.

Continue reading

Sew 248 – Silk jacket shortened

corporate wear in silkMaterial World is another Voyeur magazine September story of interest that outlines where the world’s best textiles come from. It tells of silk from Varanasi in India, angora from Ankara in Turkey, merino wool from Marlborough New Zealand (Australian merino growers are up there with the best too), crocodile from Crocodylus Park in the Northern Territory and cotton from Texas in the United States.

I’m not sure of the origins of the pure silk in this Keri Craig jacket but I picked it up from a Brisbane op-shop because I love rescuing natural fibre garments in danger of being overlooked and then dumped. Although its wide lapels and long line were somewhat dated, I hand-washed it before giving it a restyle to team with a fine black and white hounds-tooth check skirt (also opshop found) to create a corporate look.  Continue reading

Sew 240 – Snip and tie shoulder straps

Olivia wears upcycled TOp shopping is such an adventure and much more fun than shopping for new stuff because you get to make discoveries.

This is a quote from my young New Zealand visitor Olivia after we called into a few op shops during National Op Shop Week, in-between the usual sightseeing and conventional shopping.

What a great insight from a nine-year-old, right, modelling one of her finds. The I Love Aus singlet was perfect, apart from being too long in the shoulders. All we had to do was snip each shoulder on the diagonal and tie a knot to shorten and prevent the shoulders slipping off (see photos below). Olivia then teamed it with op-shop-found shorts to suit her young athletic style.  Continue reading

Sew 214 – T-shirts reworked

t-shirts reworkedHacktivism strikes me as a great term to describe the art of hacking into reject and cast-off clothing that is no longer loved, at the same time as making a statement about waste and exploitation that arises from contemporary fashion consumption habits. (That was until I googled it and found it’s more readily aligned with computer hacking.)

Anyway, this method of upcycling reflects the #scavengerstyle fashion political statement made by upcycler Karen Ellis whose 24/7 practice is wearing garments salvaged from the point of landfill in Victoria, Australia for the past five years.

Karen brought my attention to Otto von Busch and his >self_passage< research project that ‘explores how fashion can be used for empowerment, self-development and personal growth instead of being a phenomenon of top-down decrees and collective anxiety’.  Continue reading

Sew 210 – Collar wrap adds interest

Birger Christensen cashmere upcycledThis long black 100% cashmere coat is a favourite found on a freezing day out in Toronto op-shopping with son Max a few years ago. It is total quality as a Birger Christensen and a testament for natural fibres and superior design.

The coat was in perfect condition when I purchased it (for $120) but this winter when I got it out of the airtight winter suitcase, I noticed the fleece on the cuffs and collars had a couple of small bare spots. Not insect damage, perhaps age. I used a permanent marker to blacken the spots and that camouflaged them effectively.

While in Warwick last week, I couldn’t resist a quick visit to the op shop and found two pieces of wool fabric for $3 each. This red and charcoal herringbone weave square metre was ideal to turn into a wrap collar, which was an easy way to add interest to the plain back coat without interfering with its integrity. This combination was nice and warm to wear to the Night Noodle Markets at Southbank in Brisbane.  Continue reading

Sew 209 – Simple drape of tartan

Tartan wrapIt has received controversial reviews but I love the Scotland team’s Commonwealth Games uniform of bright tartan – particularly the wool wrap which was worn in so many different ways by female athletes during the opening ceremony.

The uniform inspired me to uncover an unused piece of tartan fabric that has been languishing in my studio for a decade and create this winter wrap. This piece of fabric is about 160cm wide and over two metres long, with one side longer than the other but this method works with any length or width (the shape will be different though). It is just a matter of cutting partway down the middle, securing the end of that cut by sewing a rectangle of fabric to the back, then fringing the cut edges. You just sit the wrap on your shoulders and flick the longer end over the back. You could use an old blanket to achieve the same effect.

tartan wrap

Sew 204 – Hem just right for Lily

Altering hems to suitHere’s my little girl all grown up and flown the coup. Lily left with friends for Europe last night to holiday before undertaking a semester of her University of Queensland degree at Leeds University in the United Kingdom. We will miss her so much. Travel safe my beautiful clever girl.

Like many people, Lily buys clothes online. Because you can’t try them on, they’re not always what you expect. Lil bought several dresses including this one a year ago, and we had a sewing bee (she sewed!) taking up the hems about 4cm and trimming the sleeves. The viscose fabric (reconstituted plant fibres) is light, soft and easy to wear and work with.  Continue reading

Sew 192 – Conversions for coast comfort

Carol wears upcycledChanging clothes to suit yourself is simple when you know how and have a little confidence. My friend Carol purchased this Pringle cashmere cardigan from a vintage shop without trying it on, only to discover the cuff bands were uncomfortably tight. Our creative solution was to chop them off, leaving about 1cm of the rib to hold the sleeves together and then blanket stitch the raw edge.

For the no-sew skirt, a large men’s blue cotton polo shirt was turned upside down and waist elastic inserted into what was the hem of the shirt. The collar and ribbed sleeve bands were cut-off and the shirt sliced along the shoulders to create a flared, contemporary hemline that was great for rock-hopping and bush-walking at Noosa during a brief break at the beach. Continue reading

Sew 185 – Meredith made a cape

Meredith's skirt becomes capeA bit of lateral thinking can go a long way. Meredith brought this gorgeous embellished red wool skirt to our Biloela workshop wondering what she could do to morph a cast-off into something she was more likely to wear.

After turning it upside down, around and about for a few minutes, we came up with the idea of turning it into a winter cape. The skirt was comprised of panels, and Meredith unpicked most of two seams that lined up with her arms. She then used blanket stitch and wool thread to secure and define these openings as armholes.  The zip became the collar when half-unzipped and with the edges secured by a couple of random vintage buttons. The zip and fastenings remain in place as collar features – and a signpost to the fact this is a refashioned creation. To finish off the neckline, Meredith sewed a piece of elastic inside the back of the ‘collar’ so it sits up neatly at the rear. Clever!  Continue reading